Some of the best cheap meals are to be found in canteens. They're not fancy, but they serve excellent food, scenic views and tabs that amount to pocket change. TOI-Crest profiles four such eateries
Ttiveni Tea Terrace, Delhi
An adda for artists, office-goers and buddies, the terrace is buzzing throughout the day. The arty cafê, which overlooks an amphitheatre, has reasonably priced food that tastes home-cooked. Owner Mina Singh says that while the cafê is 35 years old, she took over five years ago. "I am considered to be a decent cook," she says. "So when this offer came my way, I decided to give it a shot and see how it works." It works very well indeed.
The cafê is choc-a-bloc with people and there isn't a table there that isn't eating or ordering the enormous shaami kebabs, keema and paranthas. "When we started out, we used to serve only kebabs and a few other things. But now we have a fairly expansive lunch and breakfast menu," says Singh. While the veggie of the day changes daily, the other dishes are fixed. "Our food is simple and we would like to keep it like that," she points out. "Actually, that's what differentiates us from other fancy cafês and eateries."
People can either eat outside on the terrace or inside the cafê, which has an ethnic dêcor with low seating. "We often come here for a full meal, since we guys stay away from home," says college student Meenakshi Sinha, who often watches plays in the Mandi House area. "The food is uncomplicated and reminds us of our mothers' cooking."
Apart from common people, theatre bigwigs like Sanjna Kapoor, Faisal Alkazi and Amal Allana are regulars here. So, the next time you drop in for a kebab and spot a stagestalwart sitting by your side and eating, don't feel shy to eavesdrop. You might just talk your way into a big, theatrical role.
Triveni Kala Sangam, Tansen Marg, near Bengali Market (2371-8833 ).
Mon-Sat 10.30 am-3.30 pm, 4.30-6 pm. Meal for two approx Rs 200
Cafe Goethe, Delhi
The chirping birds, wrought iron chairs and mixed cuisines make Cafê Goethe informal, chic and a people's place. Run by IT consultant Anand Mohan, the cafê is perennially bustling with students of German at Max Mueller Bhavan. "Sometimes, students help us out in the kitchen, intern with us or share recipes," says Mohan, whose ex-intern is now running a restaurant in North Tyrol, the German speaking part of Northern Italy.
For Delhi's butter chickendevouring crowd, the European, Chinese and Indian cuisines are a welcome change. Occasionally a German dish features on the menu. However, it's the cafe's masala macaroni, noodles and mango shake that are staples with the youngsters. "We make German food on order when there's an in-house party," says Anand, who also caters for Cafê Charbagh at the British Council. "Actually, one needs to develop a taste for German fare. Delhiites lack that."
Even though Delhi is a lush city, the lack of good garden cafês has always been a sour point. That's one of the reasons why this cafê scores over other places. "The atmosphere's cool, you can walk in your flip-flops, eat a VFM meal, soak in the green garden environment and head out - where else can you get that in Delhi?" asks Mohan who is planning to hire a German chef to help him run the cafê and acquaint Indians with German gastronomy. "Summer isn't the right season for German food, it's winter," he says. And that's why he's eagerly waiting for the fall. "I plan to serve kartoffelsalat (potato salad) and currywurst, (sausage with curry powder) and probably host a German food fest too," he promises.
Max Mueller Bhavan, Kasturba Gandhi Marg (011-2332-9506 )
Daily, 8 am-6.30 pm, Meal for two approx Rs 150
KANIKA DHAWAN
Kala Academy, Goa
Along the banks of the River Mandovi in Panjim, Goa, the imposing Kala Academy houses arguably one of the best-located canteens in the country. Lush lawns, swaying pine trees, a lighthouse, and cruise boats supplement your meal at the only eatery at this architectural masterpiece designed by Charles Correa. The Academy is the Holy Grail of Goan art, culture and music and is where the young talent of the state is nurtured. Appropriately, the canteen has separate rates for students and members of the public. While rather deserted in the morning, it springs to life at lunchtime, when employees of the complex as well as people from around arrive for lunch. And with the spectacular surroundings adding value to the food, you're sure to get the most bang for your buck.
The afternoon, when most classical music classes are held, sees students occasionally drop by for a snack. It's never silent here; if not the chirping of the birds, it's the twang of a practising violin or the roar of the river. The selfservice canteen is at its liveliest late in the evening, when the nearby DMK auditorium - Goa's best - plays host to either a concert, a tiatr, a natak or a talk. During the break, the audience rushes here to refuel, and there's healthy competition for the tables, since everyone wants to have their meal facing the river.
A few years ago, the canteen only served vegetarian food. Its samosas and batatawadas were most popular. But now, it has turned into a fullfledged eatery, serving everything from fried rice to chicken rolls. The lunch menu is rather exhaustive, but Vinayak Morajkar, who runs the canteen, says that it's the chicken fried rice (Rs 50), that has the most takers. Yet, most visitors maintain that the canteen's strength lies in its deepfried snacks, especially the aloo kapam, a batter-fried slice of potato.
The counter service at the canteen is quick, and the staff friendly. The only grouse we had are the chairs, which, being set in close proximity to lawns and pines, are stained with bird droppings. These take some charm away from the meal, but considering the magnificence of the building you're in, it's unlikely that any other public canteen in the country can offer you what it does.
Kala Academy complex, Campal, Panaji (0832-420453).
Daily, 9 am-8 pm. Meal for two approx Rs 100
NIGEL BRITTO
MLA Hostel Canteen, Mumbai
You'll never mistake a government canteen for a private restaurant even if the signboard aspires to be a 'hotel'. At Hotel Majestic (nee Majestic Amdar Niwas Upargruha) there's more damning proof of its roots: two ponderous portraits of Ambedkar and Shivaji, the latter given the courtesy of privacy with red velvet curtains. In the cavern of a typically government space, the janta can walk in for Chinese and Indian food. The place was built as a cafeteria for MLAs residing in the hostel above. A separate air-conditioned cabin is reserved for them and the meals are subsidised - they cost a fourth of the food served in the humid hall outside. If you can forgive the grease, the meals are actually palatable. The chicken holds its own even in the sulphurous tikka masala (Rs 65), and the rotis (from a section in the menu abstractedly marked 'Charcoal') yield easily.
The short order of dishes cauterised in Nagpur's super-spicy souji masala is deliciously eye-watering (chana masala souji, Rs 38). You ask the waiter if 'corn finger' is indeed a single digit, and he tells you they have no fingers. You wonder why eggs are under the header marked 'Aquatics' (the omelette is certainly not made of fish roe). While you process all this, a man arrives crab-like and asks you to lift your legs to allow him to sweep the floor. You go to the sink to wash up, and the stream subtracts to a trickle when the adjacent tap is turned on. The towels (not that you'd ever use them) are stained blue from all the sarkari hands that mob the place. The food could momentarily fool you, but everything else is an official reminder that you're eating with the government.
Hotel Majestic, opposite Regal Cinema, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba (022-2202-1585 )
Daily, 7 am-11 pm, Meal for two approx Rs 150